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	<description>The Land and Its People</description>
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		<title>Understanding Sacred Mountains Through the Ordinary </title>
		<link>https://sikkimproject.org/understanding-sacred-mountains-through-the-ordinary/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=understanding-sacred-mountains-through-the-ordinary</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Prava Rai]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Jul 2026 04:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Book Review English]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[In Search of Mount Kailash: Travels in the Sacred Himalayas by Alex McKay. Rachna Books Gangtok, 2026. ISBN: 978-81-89602-239 Mountains have...]]></description>
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<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>In Search of Mount Kailash: Travels in the Sacred Himalayas by <em>Alex McKay</em>. Rachna Books Gangtok, 2026. ISBN: 978-81-89602-239</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Mountains have long been understood as extensions of human belief systems. In their vastness lies a spiritual significance that human societies continually seek to interpret and embody. Across the Himalayas, mountains are revered not merely as physical landscapes but as a way of life and religious entities. Among the Rong (Lepcha) people of Sikkim, for instance, a narrated mythology mentions the creation of the first Rong from the snow of Mountain Kachendzonga (Tamsang, 2000). Another example, is the pilgrimage to Kedarnath temple in the Garhwal Himalayas of Uttarkhand, dedicated to Shiva, remains one of the most prominent examples of the relationship between landscape and devotion in India. Despite the risks posed by difficult terrain, extreme weather, and even disasters such as the 2013 floods, devotees continue to undertake the journey in large numbers. It is within this broader Himalayan sacred geography that Alex McKay’s <em>In Search of Mount Kailash: Travels in the Sacred Himalayas</em> situates itself.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The book is both a travel narrative and an intellectual journey spanning nearly three decades. The author does not approach Mount Kailash merely as a destination; rather, he seeks to understand the religious, cultural, and historical worlds that surround it. Unlike many travellers drawn to the Himalayas by romanticized ideas of serenity and spiritual enlightenment, the author’s primary interest lies in understanding the beliefs, histories, and lived experiences of the people inhabiting the landscapes. What initially attracts him is not simply the mountain itself but the possibility of seeing what remains unseen through the lens of a student of history. This perspective becomes one of the book's strengths, as readers witness not only the author's travels but also his gradual intellectual transformation.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">A particular reflection appears in the ninth chapter “Leiden,” where the author writes:</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">“Like learning how to play a musical instrument, understanding is not a matter of steady evolution but rather consists of a series of sudden leaps followed by long periods of consolidation. Those leaps often come from a moment of insight when you move from knowing something to understanding it in its widest context, for there is a big difference between the two” (p. 199).</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The travels are not presented as a constant collection of knowledge but as a series of reflections, and insights that gradually shape the understanding of the Himalayas and their sacred landscapes.&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The book is divided into two parts. The first chapter that introduces part one of the book called “Meeting the Mountains,” explores the myths and sacred narratives associated with Mount Kailash. The chapter discusses Tibetan stories of Milarepa, the hermit who flew to the mountain peak, alongside Hindu traditions that identify Kailash as the abode of Shiva and Kubera, and Jain beliefs that associate it with Rishabha.These narratives reveal how a single mountain can simultaneously occupy multiple religious worlds. More importantly, attention is given to indigenous traditions in which mountains are not merely symbols but active participants in social life. Mountains become what is described in the book&nbsp; as “eco-cultural units” where landscape, memory, ritual, and identity intersect.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The discussion of the Bon religion and its relationship with Tibetan Buddhism recurs in many chapters of the book. Rather than presenting religious traditions as isolated systems, the book demonstrates how beliefs change through interaction, incorporation, and adaptation.This theme is also evident in the ninth chapter “Leiden” of Part Two that offers an interesting analogy to describe the gradual absorption of local traditions into larger religious systems. The author compares the process to a village store selling locally produced goods that is gradually replaced by supermarkets stocked with national and foreign products. This analogy provides a useful way of understanding religious transformation in the Himalayas.&nbsp; The observations also resonate with Robert Redfield's distinction between the Great Tradition and the Little Tradition, where local beliefs and practices exist in continuous dialogue with institutionalized religious systems. Similarly, they can be read through Antonio Gramsci's notion of cultural hegemony, whereby dominant traditions establish legitimacy not simply through replacement but through the incorporation and reinterpretation of local beliefs.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The sacredness of Mount Kailash is inseparable from the lakes Manasarovar and Rakshastal, whose contrasting symbolic meanings create a sacred-profane duality central to many religious imaginations of the region.&nbsp; The author’s exploration reveals how sacred landscapes transcend political borders, attracting pilgrims, traders, and travellers from diverse cultural backgrounds. His own journey, beginning during the era of the Himalayan hippy trail, became an effort to move beyond inherited Western representations of the region and to understand it through direct experience. Particularly evocative is the description of the fishtail peak of the Annapurna range in Pokhara sacred to the Gurungs in the second chapter of the book “An Indian Initiation”. As a reader, researcher, and traveller, I found this section especially resonant. Machhapuchhre, or Fishtail Mountain, has inspired generations of trekkers and mountain enthusiasts, and it was also among the first mountain images that inspired my own fascination with trekking and Himalayan landscapes. This personal resonance mirrors one of the book's central themes that journeys often begin in wonder, but meaningful understanding emerges only through sustained engagement.&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">In the same chapter “Indian Initiation,” the author describes hill people as calm, quiet, and dignified, reflecting his admiration for the communities he encounters. Yet he avoids reducing them to idealized figures and instead situates their lives within broader historical and social contexts. He is equally critical of the ways in which mountain landscapes are marketed and represented. He critiques forms of tourism and state promotion that commodify the Himalayas for economic gain while often overlooking the people’s histories that give meaning to these landscapes.&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">One of the book’s central contributions is its portrayal of the Himalayas as a “cultural frontier.” This theme becomes particularly visible in the third chapter “Tibet: A Dream in Exile,” where the enduring fascination with Tibet as a mysterious and spiritual land is examined. Further the chapter demonstrates how Tibet’s historical isolation contributed to its representation as a “Forbidden Land,” while simultaneously challenging romanticized depictions of Tibetan society. His experiences in Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj, including encounters with His Holiness the Dalai Lama, provide insight into exile, identity, and the complexities of Tibetan Buddhism. His reflections on the Tibetan massifs and sacred landscapes are accompanied by deeper questions about politics, identity, and peace. At one point, he wonders whether Tibet would be perceived as a zone of peace if existing political circumstances were reversed and Tibetans possessed greater political autonomy. Such reflections reveal his willingness to question dominant narratives rather than accept them uncritically.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The theme of borders and frontier spaces continues in subsequent chapters of part one such as “Lhasa: 1984”&nbsp; as the author tries to enter the closely sealed borders of Tibet, from Honkong. and the two “Kailash: A Tibetan Journey”where he tries to enter Kailash via Pakistan. Here, Tibet emerges not only as a sacred landscape but also as a politically regulated territory shaped by state power, and mobility restrictions. The contrast between the experiences of local Tibetans and foreign travellers reveals how access to space is mediated by unequal political realities.&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The author’s travel account also highlights the resilience of Tibetan culture. The second chapter “An Indian Initiation" mentions the&nbsp; presence of Buddhas carved in the cliff face even after destruction of the bamiyan by the Mongols. The presence of the Buddha statue demonstrates how material culture can function as a form of cultural resistance.&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The travel account also offers valuable anthropological observations. The descriptions of rituals such as sky burials, pilgrimage practices, and monastic traditions reflect a sustained engagement with local cultures. At the same time, the book frequently balances rational inquiry with an appreciation of faith and spiritual experience. This dual perspective allows the author to approach religious practices with both scholarly curiosity and personal openness.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The second part of the book traces the author’s transition into formal academic study. His return to Dharamshala, where he lived among local families and participated in everyday life, resembles what anthropologists would later describe as participant observation. These experiences enriches the author’s understanding of social life and religious practice beyond formal institutions.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">An important theme throughout the book is the relationship between local traditions and what are often called “world religions.” The book repeatedly demonstrates that Himalayan religious cultures cannot be understood through rigid categories. Hinduism, Buddhism, Tantric traditions, territorial deities, local spirits, and indigenous cosmologies coexist and interact in complex ways.These observations have broader relevance across the Himalayan region. Similar processes of religious assimilation, reinterpretation, and revival can be observed among various indigenous communities, including Kirati groups in Nepal. The author does not explicitly frame these processes through theoretical language. However, his observations provide valuable insight into how religious transformations occur. Such processes are not unique to Tibet.&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The book is equally attentive to social hierarchies. In the eighth chapter “University of Gangnani,” the author explores the differing status accorded to various ascetic traditions, including the marginal position of certain groups such as the Aghoris. More broadly, drawing attention to the social inequalities and hierarchies that continue to shape everyday life in South Asia. In this context, the observations reveal how sacred spaces are not isolated from wider social structures but are deeply embedded within systems of caste, class, and privilege. As the author notes in the twelfth chapter “Shifting Centre,” “For every pilgrim focussed on their spiritual goal or physical welfare, there was a labourer shovelling gravel and a clerk bent over his account book.” Such moments ground the sacred within the everyday and reveal the often invisible labour upon which pilgrimage depends</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Conflict and contested identities emerge as another significant theme. The travels through Tibet and Kashmir reveal frontier regions shaped by competing political claims, cultural negotiations, and historical tensions. The reflections on Tibetan exile and Kashmiri identity move beyond simplistic narratives, illustrating the diverse ways in which people understand belonging, nationhood, and place. This demonstrates that borderlands are not merely geographical margins but lived spaces where identities are continuously negotiated and reimagined. Tibet appears not only as a sacred landscape but also as a site of displacement, memory, and resistance.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Food and everyday practices receive equal attention. As a vegetarian traveller, the author frequently reflects on the challenges and possibilities of adapting to local food cultures, particularly through staples such as tsampa and butter tea. These observations underscore a broader anthropological insight i.e. food is deeply connected to environment, culture, and personal identity. Even as researchers attempt to bridge emic and etic perspectives, dietary practices often reveal the limits and possibilities of fully immersing.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The book’s greatest strength lies in its refusal to romanticize the Himalayas. The author repeatedly challenges colonial and popular representations that portray Tibet and the Himalayan region as timeless, mystical spaces detached from history. He critiques earlier travel accounts, reflects on his own assumptions, and attempts to understand the region in its everyday realities. While traces of romantic fascination occasionally remain, the overall narrative is marked by a strong commitment to reflexivity and critical observation.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Thus, <em>In Search of Mount Kailash</em> is much more than a travelogue. It is an intellectual and personal exploration of sacred landscapes, religious transformations, borderlands, and cultural encounters. The book demonstrates that the significance of Mount Kailash lies not only in the mountain itself but also in the journeys, communities, histories, and beliefs encountered along the way. The result is a nuanced and engaging account that encourages readers to understand the Himalayas not as an abstract spiritual ideal but as a lived and dynamic world shaped by everyday realities. Returning to the ninth chapter “Leiden,” the book ultimately focuses on the movement from knowing something to understanding it in its widest context.&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">References</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Tamsang, L. (2000). <em>Lepcha Folkore and Folk Songs</em>. Sahitya Academi.<strong><br></strong></p>
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		<title>Beyond the Himalayan Landscape: Reading Chetan Raj Shrestha’s The King’s Harvest</title>
		<link>https://sikkimproject.org/beyond-the-himalayan-landscape-reading-chetan-raj-shresthas-the-kings-harvest/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=beyond-the-himalayan-landscape-reading-chetan-raj-shresthas-the-kings-harvest</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Prava Rai]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Jul 2026 04:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Book Review English]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://sikkimproject.org/?p=11763</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[The King’s Harvest by Chetan Raj Shrestha, Rachna Books, Gangtok. ISBN: 978-81-89602-16-1Like many readers, I spent my formative years reading books...]]></description>
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<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>The King’s Harvest by Chetan Raj Shrestha, Rachna Books, Gangtok. ISBN: 978-81-89602-16-1</strong><br>Like many readers, I spent my formative years reading books set in England which introduced me to unfamiliar cultures, histories and cities. However, there is something particularly gratifying about reading a book that is rooted in a landscape one knows. Chetan Raj Shrestha’s <em>The King’s Harvest</em> provides precisely such an experience. The book extends beyond literary pleasures as it emerges from a region that has always been marginalized in the mainstream Indian literary discourse. Against this backdrop, <em>The King’s Harvest</em> acquires a particular significance. The book broadens the imagination of Indian literature by directing the attention towards a region which was always at the periphery of literature representation. Reading a fiction based on the social and cultural milieu of one’s own region creates a unique sense of connection<em>.&nbsp;</em></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><em>The</em> King’s Harvest consists of two separate novellas, <em>An Open-and-Shut Case </em>and<em> The King’s Harvest.</em> <em>An Open and Shut Case</em> is a gripping mystery centered around a seemingly straightforward crime. As the narrative progresses, what initially appeared to be a simple case develops into a more intricate exploration of justice, truth and the limitations of institutional authority. The story is centered around a woman named Kamala who murders her husband by cutting his body into forty-seven pieces and then surrenders herself to the police. At the first glance it appears to be a conventional crime story but the novella dismantles this assumption since Kamala openly confesses to the murder. The investigation then intends to seek to uncover the circumstances that compelled her to commit such an extreme act. The investigation for this case is led by Dechen OC, a bold Police officer. As she digs deeper, the case gets more complicated. The focus then shifts from who committed the murder? To what does guilt actually mean? It compels the readers to reconsider the nature of guilt, justice and punishment. Puran, the husband who was murdered emerges as a figure whose outward respectability conceals profound moral corruption. Through revelations of his abusive behaviour, manipulation and exploitation, the novella blurs the distinction between legal guilt and moral culpability, inviting readers to question whether the law alone can adequately deliver justice. The story therefore asks an unsettling question: when law arrives after long private suffering, can it still claim moral authority? Dechen OC, the investigating officer, is also an equally important part of the story because she embodies the tension between procedure and conscience. Even though she is obligated to uphold the law and treat the case as a homicide, her understanding of Kamala’s experience forces her to confront the inadequacies of the justice system that fails to protect victims before violence occurs. <em>An Open-and-Shut</em> Case invites readers to reflect on the complexities of crime, punishment and the human cost of institutional failure. Beneath the veneer of an idyllic Himalayan paradise, <em>An Open-and-Shut Case</em> reveals the unsettling realities that lurk within the private sphere. The novella is permeated by themes of domestic violence, patriarchal domination and the structural injustices inflicted upon women, exposing how gendered suffering is often normalised and rendered invisible.&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><em>The King’s Harvest </em>follows Tontem, an unassuming and deeply isolated farmer who spends thirty-two years cultivating a remote piece of land in unwavering devotion to his sovereign. He lives in near-complete seclusion yet he faithfully sets aside a portion of each harvest for the King, believing it to be his moral obligation and the highest expression of his loyalty. His life is governed by an unquestioning faith in a monarch whom he has met only once but whose authority remains absolute in his imagination. Tontem’s reality is suspended in time and is untouched by the political and social transformations unfolding beyond the boundaries of his farm. When Tontem finally embarks on a journey to deliver the accumulated royal share of his harvest, he realises that the kingdom to which he dedicated his life has irrevocably changed. He realises that the ideals upon which he had built his identity no longer correspond to the realities of the contemporary world. Shrestha in this novella has masterfully blended realism with the timeless qualities of a moral fable creating a narrative that universally resonant in its exploration of human experience. Tontem emerges as a tragic yet dignified figure whose steadfast commitment, once a source of meaning, ultimately renders him vulnerable in a world that has moved beyond the ideals he continues to cherish.<strong>&nbsp;</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The two novellas in <em>The King’s Harvest</em> are united less by plot than by mood, setting and a shared concern with human vulnerability. One story moves through urban Sikkim and the other through rural, mountain Sikkim, but both use the region to show how lives are shaped by isolation, longing, fear and the gap between appearance and truth. The book has played an important role in Sikkimese representation in fiction. Shrestha’s portrayal of Sikkim departs significantly from the romanticised imagery that has long dominated popular representations of the Himalayan state. Rather than reducing the region to a picturesque landscape of snow-capped peaks, monasteries and tourist attractions, he foregrounds its social complexities, emotional tensions and historical transformations. Kamala’s story questions whether legal institutions can adequately respond to prolonged private suffering, Tontem’s journey reflects on the emotional consequences of unwavering loyalty in a world transformed by history. Despite their distinct narratives, both protagonists are individuals, whose lives are shaped by forces far greater than themselves, rendering them vulnerable to systems of power, tradition and social neglect. Ultimately, <em>The King’s Harvest</em> succeeds not because it provides definitive answers but because it compels readers to confront difficult moral and political questions. Whether examining domestic violence, institutional justice, loyalty or historical change, the novellas reveal the quiet struggles of ordinary individuals whose lives are shaped by forces beyond their control.</p>
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		<title>Constructing Sikkimese Identity: Colonialism, Monarchy, and History in Alex McKay’s ‘The Mandala Kingdom’</title>
		<link>https://sikkimproject.org/constructing-sikkimese-identity-colonialism-monarchy-and-history-in-alex-mckays-the-mandala-kingdom/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=constructing-sikkimese-identity-colonialism-monarchy-and-history-in-alex-mckays-the-mandala-kingdom</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Prava Rai]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Jun 2026 04:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Book Review English]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://sikkimproject.org/?p=11604</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[The Mandala Kingdom: A Political History of Sikkim by Alex McKay, Rachna Books, Gangtok. (2021). ISBN 978-81-89602-12-3. The Mandala Kingdom: A...]]></description>
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<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><em>The Mandala Kingdom: A Political History of Sikkim</em> by Alex McKay, Rachna Books, Gangtok. (2021). ISBN 978-81-89602-12-3.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><em>The Mandala Kingdom: A Political History of Sikkim </em>delivers a rich historical account of the British period in Sikkim. Using previously unpublished Royal Family archives, McKay advances fresh insights and presents a comprehensive account from the perspective of the rulers, establishing the book as a significant contribution to Sikkimese history. He illuminates the interplay of Buddhism, Tibetan influence, and the interests of the ruling elite in crafting Sikkim’s historical narrative. The book traces Sikkim's mythic origins under the Namgyal dynasty through the long arc of British colonial engagement. It culminates in the political crisis that led to the merger with India in 1975. McKay offers a nuanced, deeply researched account that challenges many received interpretations of Sikkimese history.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The opening chapter presents the traditional Buddhist view of Sikkim’s history and explains how the Namgyal dynasty emerged as divinely chosen to rule. It reframes the importance of Buddhism, prophecies, and sacred texts in shaping Sikkim’s past. Drawing on Mullard (2011), McKay layers a more critical and historical reading, arguing that many traditional stories about the Namgyal dynasty arose from religion and politics rather than being purely factual. The strength of the approach lies in its ability to question traditional accounts using modern research while still acknowledging their cultural significance for local identity. McKay encourages readers to examine Sikkim’s history critically without dismissing the weight these narratives carry. The chapter  highlights the challenges of the 18th century, especially the Gorkha invasions and territorial losses. McKay foregrounds the importance of class and power alongside ethnic and religious factors in shaping early Sikkimese society.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">McKay details the tempestuous relationship between Sikkim and the British. He argues that Sikkim lost Darjeeling because of cultural misunderstandings. While scholars have written about the Anglo-Sikkimese conflict in the mid-19th century, many accounts display biased perspectives. McKay handles this issue with the delicacy it deserves. He demonstrates how British officials such as Dr. Campbell’s arrogance and lack of diplomatic skill worsened relations. British officials often misread Sikkim’s political system and blamed Dewan Namgyal for many problems. By challenging the traditional British narrative that “<em>pagla</em>” (mad) Dewan Namgyal was a villain, McKay recovers the strength and fortitude of the Dewan who defended Sikkim’s interests against the colonial overlords. Personal rivalries, cultural misunderstandings, and British imperial ambitions altered&nbsp; Sikkim’s history and expanded British influence over the kingdom. McKay’s empathetic yet critical re-examination of Dewan Namgyal enriches our understanding of this pivotal conflict.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">In the chapter, ‘Sikkim 1861-1888’, McKay demonstrates that Sikkim’s loss of autonomy was a gradual process. Sikkim’s history during this period emerged from the struggle between British imperial expansion, Tibetan influence and internal political divisions. After the 1861 Treaty, the British viewed Sikkim no longer as an independent kingdom, but primarily as a route to Tibet. Its&nbsp; position as a buffer state was secured. The <em>Chogyals</em> and Sikkimese elites struggled to balance relations with British and Tibetan powers to protect their kingdom. Around this time, Nepalese immigration transformed Sikkimese society, economy, and politics, creating divisions among the ruling elite. The chapter reveals that British support for Nepalese immigration served partly political aims by reducing Tibetan influence in Sikkim. By 1888, after the British military expedition and the defeat of Tibetan forces, the <em>Chogyal </em>retained the throne but real power had largely shifted to the British. One limitation of this chapter stems from its heavy reliance on British colonial records. Consequently, the voices of ordinary Sikkimese people, especially Lepchas and Nepalese settlers, remain less visible.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Sikkim transformed considerably under British rule, especially during the time of J. C. White. The British administration introduced roads, schools, hospitals, courts, and postal services, creating an organized government and modernising Sikkim. However, the chapter exposes the negative side of British rule. The British eroded Sikkim’s independence and often made important decisions without the consent of the <em>Chogyal</em>, such as choosing Sidkeong Tulku as heir. Nepalese settlers faced unfair treatment, higher taxation and discrimination, while many aristocrats fell into debt. During the Francis Young Husband Mission to Tibet, many Sikkimese were forced to work as porters under difficult conditions. Overall, the book provides a nuanced account of how Sikkim moved from a traditional kingdom to a more modern state under British influence. It reveals that modernization brought progress, but also colonial control, social tensions, and unequal benefits.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">One of the book's most compelling chapters explores Sidkeong Tulku, whom McKay portrays as a visionary leader who sought to modernize Sikkim while preserving Buddhism. His education in Oxford, religious reforms, support for education, forestry conservation, and efforts to connect Sikkim with the wider Buddhist world stand out clearly. However, the chapter is at times too sympathetic towards him and idealizes him as a tragic hero whose early death prevented a bright future for Sikkim. The resistance his reforms faced from ordinary people, monks, and aristocrats is sidestepped. His criticism of local customs as “superstition” is noted, but not sufficiently interrogated. While most people in Sikkim at the time practised Hinduism, Sidkeong’s vision focused heavily on Buddhism and Buddhist identity. This is a tension that the book could have explored more. McKay shows how deeply Sidkeong absorbed British education and colonial ideas of modernisation, portraying him as a complex figure who tried to balance Buddhism, tradition, and modernity; but the analysis is unable to fully explore the complexities.&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The British policy in Sikkim shifted after C. A. Bell assumed the role of political officer in 1908. Unlike White’s authoritarian approach, Bell adopted a more diplomatic and cooperative style and sought an alliance with the Sikkimese ruling elite. Bell’s policies stabilised Sikkim, strengthened the Namgyal monarchy, and prepared the state for a gradual return of internal administration to local control. Bell introduced measures such as the ‘Sikkim Debt Law of 1910’ to curb exploitative money-lending practices and restricted further Nepalese immigration through land and forest policies. These actions reflected his attempt to balance British strategic interests with the concerns of Sikkim’s traditional elites.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The discussion of identity formation during this period offers one of the most interesting sections. McKay reveals how a shared Bhutia-Lepcha Buddhist identity was promoted, while Nepalese communities remained politically underrepresented despite their growing demographic and economic importance. The chapter effectively demonstrates that ideas of “Sikkimese identity” were not fixed but were shaped by both colonial policies and local responses. The argument runs through the entire book and constitutes one of its most important contributions.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The chapter on the return to autonomy unpacks the rise of Tashi Namgyal following the death of Sidkeong Tulku and the restoration of Sikkim’s internal autonomy in 1918. Unlike his predecessor, Tashi Namgyal avoided bold reforms, but advocated combining modern ideas with Sikkimese traditions. The tensions between the Bhutia-Lepcha ruling groups and the growing Nepalese population reveal that Sikkimese identity was derived largely by religion and ethnicity rather than civic nationalism, which prevented the growth of a united independence movement.&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The last chapter, ‘Endings’ covers the period from 1918 to 1948, described by the author as the <em>“calm before the storm”</em> (pg. 268). It examines the deeper causes of the fall of the Namgyal dynasty. McKay argues that Sikkim failed to develop a strong national identity that included all ethnic communities, especially the Nepalese majority. He links political instability to demographic and social change rather than blaming individual leaders alone. Tashi Namgyal is presented as a wise, modern, and deeply religious ruler who successfully balanced Western modernity with traditional Buddhist kingship. His efforts in education, healthcare, and administration, alongside his commitment to monastic institutions are demonstrated. The chapter demonstrates how British influence shaped Sikkim’s elite society without completely replacing local traditions, and how educated Sikkimese became intermediaries between British India and Tibet. The chapter has some weaknesses: at times McKay appears overly sympathetic to the monarchy, placing too much responsibility for Sikkim’s collapse on British policies and Indian intervention rather than examining the monarchy’s own failures. The discussion of L. D. Kazi, for instance, sometimes portrays him more negatively than other political figures, suggesting a bias that the author does not fully acknowledge. The monarchy’s structural incapacity to manage demographic changes, its failure to build institutions that could incorporate the Nepalese majority receives far less attention than the contingent factors of British withdrawal and Indian intervention.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The book concludes with a summary of Sikkim’s political, social, and cultural history from the establishment of the Namgyal kingdom to its merger with India. One of its greatest strengths lies in its analysis of Sikkim’s identity. The author argues that Sikkimese identity was shaped by Buddhism, the Namgyal monarchy, and a shared Bhutia-Lepcha framework. The discussion of ethnic relations, especially the colonial construction of this divide, challenges many traditional interpretations and encourages readers to reconsider accepted historical narratives. Rather than portraying the British as either entirely oppressive or entirely beneficial, McKay presents a nuanced view that acknowledges interference and exploitation, while recognising contributions to education, healthcare, and administrative modernization. The argument about Nepalese migration and its long-term impact on Sikkim’s political and demographic structure is convincingly made. The growth of the Nepalese population transformed the social balance of the kingdom and eventually reconfigured the basis of political power. The experiences and perspectives of ordinary Nepalese people receive relatively little attention, a weakness that the author himself admits at the outset. The conclusion focuses heavily on elites, rulers, British officials, and political structures, while the voices of common people remain largely absent.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><em>The Mandala Kingdom</em> stands out as a strong and well-researched work that reassesses Sikkim’s history, identity, colonial experience, and political transformation with authority and clarity. Its greatest contribution lies in showing that Sikkimese history cannot be reduced to simple narratives of colonial oppression or royal decline, but must be understood as a layered process in which Buddhism, ethnicity, and geopolitics constantly intersected. Despite its tendency to privilege elite perspectives and occasionally show sympathy for the monarchy, the book succeeds in presenting Sikkim’s modern history in lucid and accessible prose. This book remains essential reading for anyone interested in the political history of the Himalayan borderlands.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>References</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Mullard, Saul. (2011). <em>Opening the Hidden Land: State Formation and the Construction of Sikkimese History. </em>&nbsp;Rachna Books.&nbsp;<br></p>



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		<title>A Fragile Equilibrium</title>
		<link>https://sikkimproject.org/a-fragile-equilibrium/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=a-fragile-equilibrium</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Prava Rai]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 May 2026 05:50:25 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Book Review English]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://sikkimproject.org/?p=11291</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Whispers in the Mist: Tales from a Himalayan Hamlet by Prerna Dewan Rai. Readomania (2025). ISBN: 978-81-981203-6-6. Prerna Dewan’s Whispers in...]]></description>
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<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Whispers in the Mist: Tales from a Himalayan Hamlet by Prerna Dewan Rai. Readomania (2025). ISBN: 978-81-981203-6-6.</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Prerna Dewan’s <em>Whispers in the Mist: Tales from a Himalayan Hamlet</em> is a collection of ten interconnected stories bound together by the spectral presence of a woman named Gayatri. The author builds a world that is set between the living and the dead. Dewan captures the rhythm of village life in the mist-laden hills, where every whisper becomes a fragment of a larger story about survival, community spirit and fellow feeling.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The narrative begins with the death of Gayatri, whose soul lingers, unable to rest. <em>“Gayatri’s spirit was on the loose”</em> (Dewan, 158). From this spectral perspective, &nbsp;Dewan threads together the lives of all the other characters whose joys, destinies and sufferings intermingle in ways both visible and invisible. Each tale, though distinct, reverberates with echoes from the others, creating an intricate mosaic of interconnected human experiences. The ghost of Gayatri is not simply a supernatural element; she is the moral and emotional axis of the book. Through her, the reader is drawn into the invisible world that binds the living to the dead. The ghost becomes a metaphor for unresolved pain and for the persistence of memory that haunts every human life. The figure of the ghostly Gayatri can also be read as a collective conscience, a silent witness to the sins, guilt and tenderness that define the village’s moral landscape.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Set in a Himalayan hamlet of the Darjeeling hills, the stories transport readers into a world far removed from the urban imagination. Dewan’s village is not the romanticised hill station of tourist brochures but a lived space of everyday struggle and domestic problems. Life here is marked by fundamental concerns- water scarcity, poor schooling, social stigma and the oppressive weight of tradition. The rhythm of existence moves with the cycles of nature; the changing light, the arrival of monsoon, and the biting cold of winter. Yet amid this rural reality, Dewan unearths something deeply human, the capacity to hope, to endure and to love even in the face of despair.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">One of the most fascinating aspects of <em>Whispers in the Mist</em> is its use of folklore to reveal the cultural psyche of the Himalayan village. Dewan beautifully weaves folk beliefs into the tapestry of everyday life- ancestral curses about wandering spirits, omens and the moral consequences of human actions. They are not presented as fanciful events but as the living grammar of a community that negotiates the unknown through story and faith. In this world created by Dewan, the dead do not simply depart; they remain as whispers in the mist, shaping decisions and guiding dreams. The porous boundary between the spiritual and the earthly reflects a worldview where belief is both a comfort and a burden.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The stories confront everyday realities, social ostracism, sexual violence, generational trauma and political unrest, filtered through a lens of myth and mysticism that softens without erasing their severity. For instance, the rape of a young woman during the Gorkhaland movement and the subsequent silence of the village are not merely social commentaries; they are also explorations of how shame and social life in the village intertwine. <em>“Your father was a criminal who raped young girls. He raped me, too. Then he took away all of your grandparents’ money and the silver cup that was our ancestral token</em> …<em>Savita had not had a good night’s sleep since the year 1986. The hills witnessed a historic demand for a separate state called Gorkhaland in West Bengal that year” </em>(170).</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The villagers’ belief in spirits, omens and unseen forces stems from an understanding of the world shaped by landscape and history. The mist that surrounds the hamlet is more than atmospheric; it becomes a metaphor for uncertainty, the haze between life and death, between truth and illusion. It allows Dewan to explore the ineffable- the grief that cannot be spoken, the guilt that cannot be confessed and the hope that refuses to die.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Dewan’s portrayal of the rural Himalayan setting highlights the stark difference between this world and the mainstream urban one. City life is defined by speed, anonymity and noise; whereas the village exists in slowness, intimacy and silence. The problems faced by Dewan’s characters- scarcity of resources, lack of education, and rigid social hierarchies, are not framed as exotic peculiarities but as universal struggles refracted through a specific geography. What distinguishes the Himalayan hamlet is not its poverty but its moral texture- the entanglement of communal responsibility, folklore, and memory. In this insular world, every tragedy is shared, every secret is half-known, and every act, whether kind or cruel, reverberates through generations.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Dewan’s prose often leans toward the poetic, mirroring the rhythm of oral storytelling. The language is slightly verbose yet lyrical, capable of evoking both the sensory richness of the hills and the emotional complexity of its inhabitants. Through recurring imagery- the mist, the sound of rain, the spectral presence of Gayatri, and the gaze of a cat; Dewan builds a sensory world that feels both intimate and otherworldly. The cat, <em>Baini</em> (younger sister in Nepali), who appears as a recurring motif and later becomes a symbolic thread in the epilogue, functions almost as an intermediary between worlds, observing with silent detachment yet embodying the persistence of life. The final image of the cat wandering through the hamlet suggests that stories, like spirits, never truly end. They merely change form, waiting to be retold.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><em>Whispers in the Mist</em> challenges the reader’s assumptions about closure and resolution. Many of the stories end not with clear conclusions but with lingering silences, unresolved emotions, and spectral presences. This narrative openness mirrors the cyclical temporality of rural life, where the past is never fully gone, and the future remains uncertain. Yet, this very ambiguity can be both a strength and a limitation. While it imbues the text with depth and mystery, it also risks leaving some arcs feeling incomplete. Readers accustomed to linear storytelling may find the fragmented structure disorienting, though others may see in it the truth of life itself, where closure is a luxury few can afford.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">What makes the book deeply affecting is its moral and emotional honesty. Dewan does not romanticise her setting; nor does she condemn it from a distance. She writes as someone who knows the pulse of the place, its contradictions, and its quiet dignity. The mist that envelops her hamlet is not merely physical; it is existential, symbolic of the ambiguity that defines all human life. The spirits, the myths, the gossip, the rituals, are all part of a fragile equilibrium that keeps the community alive even as it holds them captive.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><em>Whispers in the Mist</em> stands as a remarkable work of Himalayan fiction- introspective, melancholic and steeped in the rhythms of oral tradition. Its blend of folklore and social realism invites readers to confront the uneasy coexistence of faith and doubt, life and afterlife, progress and tradition. Prerna Dewan’s prose whispers rather than declares, but its echoes linger long after the last page, much like the mist that never quite lifts from her hamlet. The result is a book that captures not just the external beauty of the mountains but also the inner landscape of the people who inhabit them- their fears, their faith, their memories and above all, their quiet, enduring strength. This book is worth a read, being an organic reiteration of stories from the Himalayan region.</p>



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		<title>What Hope Is There In Life?</title>
		<link>https://sikkimproject.org/what-hope-is-there-in-life/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=what-hope-is-there-in-life</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Prava Rai]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 May 2026 05:43:48 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Book Review English]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://sikkimproject.org/?p=11305</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Shirish ko Phool (The Blue Mimosa, 1964) by Bishnu Kumari Waiba. Sajha Prakashan, Nepal (Lalitpur), 23rd edition (2022).  ISBN: 9789937322997 ....]]></description>
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<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong><em>Shirish ko Phool</em> (The Blue Mimosa, 1964) by Bishnu Kumari Waiba. Sajha Prakashan, Nepal (Lalitpur), 23rd edition (2022).  ISBN: 9789937322997 .</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><em>Shirish ko Phool</em> (The Blue Mimosa, 1964) is widely regarded as one of the landmark works of modern Nepali literature. Written by Bishnu Kumari Waiba under the pen name Parijat, it won the Madan Puraskar in 1965. A slim, intense novel written in an introspective register, it is remarkable not only for its richly drawn characters but for the boldness with which it engages with questions that were, for its time and context, deeply transgressive. The meaning of existence, the oppression of women, the psychological cost of war, and the violence that ordinary social arrangements normalise and conceal.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">In <em>Shirish ko Phool</em>,Parijatexplores these questions through Suyogvir, a middle-aged former soldier whose worldview is fundamentally nihilistic. It is within the framework of his search for meaning, or rather, his conviction that none exists, that the novel’s other themes unfold. Set in Kathmandu, the novel is narrated through Suyogvir’s perspective; his voice shapes the entire narrative. It is through the habit of drinking that he forms a friendship with Shivraj and, through this association, encounters Shivraj’s sister Sakambari (referred to as Bari), a young woman in her twenties. The novel focuses on Suyogvir’s interactions with these characters, particularly his obsessive and conflicted feelings towards Bari. Through flashbacks and internal monologues, Parijat portrays how this character understands life, relationships, and how he reacts to them.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Parijat uses Suyogvir’s wartime memories from the Second World War to reveal the roots of his despair and to establish the psychological and biographical contours of his character. Through these, she explores the novel’s central themes of existentialism and the absence of meaning, a pervasive nihilism that defines Suyogvir’s worldview. These episodes expose his past romantic and sexual relationships, many of which involved coercion. Suyogvir regards his own life as fundamentally devoid of meaning, as evidenced by his remark, <em>“Here not only mine but even your life carries no existence”</em> (pg. 35), and extends this emptiness to everyone around him. He mobilises this conviction as a justification for his transgressions against the women he encounters, using his nihilistic reasoning to rationalise actions taken without their consent. Crucially, this disposition is not confined to his youth; it persists into his later years, manifesting in his choice to remain unmarried and childless, and fuelling his heavy drinking. His nihilism is not merely a philosophy; it is also a weapon.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The novel reveals how people become prisoners of their own assumptions. Suyogvir repeatedly projects his beliefs onto others, most notably assuming Bari’s fury without ever confronting her, thus trapping himself in isolation and ensuring that Bari is never allowed to voice her response. He does the same with Shivraj, assuming after Bari’s passing that both their lives have been rendered meaningless. He chooses self-reflection over confrontation and thus remains a prisoner to his nihilistic views. Parijat foreshadows the tragic outcome of Suyogvir’s connection with Bari through a parallel subplot involving a shopkeeper’s wife and her teenage lover. When the woman dies and the affair ends, Parijat suggests that because the relationship existed in a vacuum of meaning, it was always already insignificant. A structural commentary on the impermanence of all human connections in the novel.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The character of Bari has been used to question the meaning of life and to challenge the traditional norms of Nepali society. Her rebellious spirit is fuelled by her rejection of the metanarratives that govern women’s lives. Her rejection of religion is apparent when she compares God to a rock. She also rejects the social institution of marriage and the patriarchal system through the striking metaphor of a bee and a flower, remarking, “<em>To accept the inevitable wilting, is it necessary to be violated by the bee?”</em>, concluding, <em>“It is possible to live alone”</em> (pg. 12). Her rejection of these social prescriptions prevents her from being the conventional Nepali woman- the dutiful wife, the compliant daughter, instead making her a genuinely free individual. Yet the novel ultimately punishes her for this freedom, suggesting that society has little tolerance for women who refuse to conform.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The oppression of women is another area that Parijat examines. Suyogvir’s actions against women during the Second World War, in Burma and among the tribal dwellings of the Nagas, reveal multiple layers of violation. First, the violation of women’s consent, as with the daughter of the headhunter and the buffalo-herding Burmese girl. Second, the objectification of women, when the British officer instructs Suyogvir to procure for him the <em>“orchid beauty”</em> (pg. 41). Thirdly, violence within a romantic relationship, as seen in how Suyogvir treats Matinchi. Suyogvir’s assault on Bari extends this pattern throughout the novel. Not only is this a violation of Bari as an individual, but the author also portrays how a free and defiant woman such as Bari cannot raise her voice against what has been done to her. The invisible walls within her family and society ensure that she can neither protest nor confide, revealing the limits that society places even on those who refuse to conform.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Parijat renders the consequences of war with unflinching clarity. The effects on civilians and women are made visible through the flashbacks, but the long-term psychological impact on soldiers is addressed with equal honesty. Parijat foregrounds the particular experience of Gurkha soldiers in the Second World War, fighting as expendable combatants in what Suyogvir bitterly refers to as <em>“death valley”</em> (pg. 44). The author shows the futility of soldiers fighting another person’s war. The colonial dimension is unmistakable, as these are soldiers whose sacrifices are appropriated by an imperial power that offers little in return. In the aftermath, while some are decorated, many, like Suyogvir, are left with nothing but the hollow question, <em>“Where is the V. C., the medal, the congratulations?”</em> (pg. 46)</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><em>Shirish ko Phool</em> is ultimately a cold and unsparing novel. Parijat offers neither redemption nor resolution. It is a tale of violence, oppression, and creeping nihilism. The rebellious Bari, who had a liking for the insect-killing orchid, perhaps much like a <em>Shirish ko phool </em>herself<em>,</em> becomes a sensitive bloom destroyed by a bee it never invited. Suyogvir declares that both his own life and Shivraj’s have been reduced to meaningless existence amidst nothingness. Yet the novel’s final ambiguity lingers. Suyogvir thinks to himself, “<em>My time might be dragging me, yet quickly I continue to walk” </em>(page 65). Whether Parijat is gesturing towards some residual hope or merely acknowledging that for those who remain, life continues regardless of meaning, is left deliberately unresolved.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">What makes the novel remarkable is that it sustains this ambiguity without sentimentality. Parijat gives us a nihilist narrator and a rebellious heroine, and allows both to be destroyed, one by society’s invisible walls, the other by his own assumptions. In doing so, she asks the reader a question she refuses to answer on their behalf: “<em>What hope is there in life?”</em> It is a question the novel earns the right to ask, and one that has kept readers returning to it for over sixty years.</p>
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		<title>Selling Shangri-La: Nepal and the Politics of Tourist Desire</title>
		<link>https://sikkimproject.org/selling-shangri-la-nepal-and-the-politics-of-tourist-desire/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=selling-shangri-la-nepal-and-the-politics-of-tourist-desire</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Prava Rai]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Apr 2026 04:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Book Review English]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://sikkimproject.org/?p=10945</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Far Out: Countercultural Seekers and the Tourist Encounter in Nepal by Mark Liechty. University of Chicago Press (2017). ISBN :9780226428949 Nepal...]]></description>
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<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Far Out: Countercultural Seekers and the Tourist Encounter in Nepal by Mark Liechty. University of Chicago Press (2017). ISBN :9780226428949</strong><br></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Nepal was never colonised, yet for decades it sold the West precisely the fantasy the British Empire had planted in their imaginations. Mark Liechty’s <em>Far Out: Countercultural Seekers and the Tourist Encounter in Nepal </em>sets out to explain this paradox. It traces how a resource poor Himalayan kingdom kept reinventing itself: to satisfy desires it had no hand in creating. Crucially, Liechty refuses to cast tourism as something that happened to Nepal. Instead, he seeks to dissect the “cultural and economic encounter between people who shared a larger world stage” (p. xii). This formulation helps us to understand Nepali agency as the centre of the story of tourism, even as Western longing drives the plot. In <em>Far Out</em>, the author traces the shifting Western imaginaries of Nepal and demonstrates how these changing perceptions have shaped the countercultural strategies that Nepalis themselves developed in order to meet and respond to Western desires, longings, and aspirations.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The genesis of Nepal’s tourist boom is especially linked to the Western crisis of meaning.&nbsp; Devastated by the two World Wars, Western travellers looked eastward, projecting onto the Himalayas a longing for ancient wisdom that their own civilisation seemed unable to provide. Books and articles had already helped Kathmandu acquire a romantic appeal long before any Westerner set foot there. China’s invasion of Tibet in 1959 closed that frontier. Consequently, Nepal inherited the full weight of that projection.&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The book divides into three neat sections, tracing the evolution of tourism in Nepal across&nbsp; distinct stages. The first section, “The Golden Age,” maps the Western fascination and the early years of Nepal’s tourism sector. Nepalis, long isolated from the outside world, struggled to comprehend why foreigners would desire to visit their rustic villages. Liechty shows how American governmental agencies partnered with the Nepali government to construct the country’s nascent tourism infrastructure, laying the foundation for an industry that would transform the nation.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">While governments built infrastructure, the media seduced Western audiences. Journalists&nbsp; descended on Kathmandu to cover King Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah’s lavish royal coronation in 1956, a multi-day spectacle of elephant processions, traditional dances, and foreign dignitaries. The coronation announced Nepal’s opening to the world. Western obsession with the “Abominable Snowman” (Yeti) simultaneously cast Nepal as an exotic and mysterious destination, arriving precisely as the country began welcoming foreigners after the collapse of Rana rule. The first successful Everest expeditions in 1953 amplified Nepal’s global profile further. Climber Eric Shipton’s&nbsp; photographs of Yeti tracks seized press attention worldwide. James Hilton’s novel <em>Lost Horizon, </em>in which a hijacked plane crashes in the Himalayas and survivors discover a hidden utopian valley called “Shangri-La” had already embedded the Himalayas deep in the Western imagination as a place of longevity, and mystery.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The irony was that Nepal, a nation that had never been colonised, found itself catering to&nbsp; the elites who romanticised the lifestyles of the British Raj. Liechty traces the rise and fall of Nepal’s first international hotel, the Royal Hotel, founded by Boris Lissanevitch whom he dubs the “Father of Nepal tourism”. Another foreigner, John Coapman, launched Tiger Tops, the adventure resort that pioneered jungle safaris. Liechty credits him as the “pioneer of hunt adventure tourism” (pp. 94). The Golden Age weaponised Himalayan mythology, channelled Western longings, and inserted Nepal firmly into global tourism circuits.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The book’s middle section, “Hippie Nepal,” is where Liechty’s ethnographic instincts catch fire. Drawing on interviews, diaries, and period doodles, he reconstructs the frenetic energy of Freak Street — the maze of budget lodges, pie shops, bakeries, restaurants, and hashish vendors that entrepreneurial Nepalis built almost overnight. This was to feed the appetites of young Westerners arriving overland from Europe. Through the 1960s, direct buses ran from England to Kathmandu via Iran, ferrying budget travellers in their thousands. The postwar economic boom, rising disposable incomes, and cheap flights made the “Road to Kathmandu” irresistible. Travellers flooded India and pushed on into Nepal. Nepalis converted their homes into lodges to absorb the wave. Liechty charts the rise of iconic establishments— Tibetan Blue, Pie/Pig Alley, Camp Hotel with genuine flair. His account of the emerging tourist district does double duty as urban history, revealing how the influx physically reconfigured the “domestic and commercial space of Kathmandu” (pp.162).</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Liechty locates the hippie exodus not merely in wanderlust but in political rupture. The American civil rights movement, the Vietnam War, and the eruption of youth <em>counterculture</em> generated a profound <em>disenchantment</em> that drove young Westerners to abandon not just their countries but their cultures. Liechty dissects the political rage of 1960s youth who rejected both the crass materialism of the postwar consumer boom and what they saw as the moral bankruptcy of their parents’ generation (pp.166). The Far East, and Kathmandu in particular, became the pressure valve for that accumulated frustration. Yet Liechty resists a one-sided account. Nepali youth, themselves unsettled by the disruption of modernisation, encountered these Western arrivals with a complex mixture of curiosity and unease. Both groups, rejecting the conventions of respectable adulthood— education, employment, mortgage, family, briefly converged on Freak Street and forged an unlikely countercultural commons. This arrangement was temporary and fragile. The “conservative backlash” in the early 1970s, accelerated by Nixon-era politics and echoed by crackdowns across Western governments, dismantled the hippie economy. The Nepali state, increasingly embarrassed by the spectacle of foreign vagrants on its streets, moved to clear them. An era closed.&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The book’s third section, “Adventure Tourism,” charts what replaced it. The new tourists arrived not to drop out but to push limits. Nepal’s government read the shift, rebranding the country for a global audience now oriented towards health, physical challenges and environmental experience. Nepal rebranded itself as a trekking destination. Thamel replaced Freak Street as the country’s dominant tourist district, built for a clientele looking for tougher physical challenges. Nepal cultivated Dharma tourism with Kopan Monastery, founded on the outskirts, playing a crucial role in attracting spiritual seekers to Tibetan Buddhism. Liechty’s central argument finds its fullest expression here: across every decade, Western desire projected a fantasy onto Nepal—exotic kingdom, counterculture sanctuary, Himalayan wilderness, spiritual refuge, trekking utopia, and Nepal, with remarkable agility, manufactured precisely the product the fantasy demanded. Liechty calls this a co-production, but the term risks making the encounter sound more equal than it was. Westerners had the money, the mobility, and the power to leave.&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><em>Far Out</em>’s<strong> </strong>most significant blind spot is the one Liechty himself identifies but never fully addresses: the Nepali voice in its own right. When conservative Nepalis recoiled at tourists’ drug use, sexuality, and disregard for local dress codes, they were articulating a politics of encounter that deserved far more than a passing acknowledgment that it receives here. The material transformation hinted at in the Freak Street passages, the conversion of domestic space into commercial space, the reshaping of consumption patterns, the transformation of urban spaces are mentioned briefly but never receive suitable analysis. The conclusion arrives abruptly, leaving the reader without a clear sense where Liechty believes this encounter leaves Nepal today.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Overall, the book provides a compelling analysis of how tourism restructured lives, livelihoods and landscapes in Nepal across half a century.<strong> </strong>More importantly, it establishes a template that scholars of adjacent Himalayan regions— Darjeeling, Ladakh, and Sikkim could adopt.<strong> </strong>These questions: how tourism reshapes land, labour, urbanisation, transforms land use, and reshapes community space in mountain society remain largely unaddressed. <em>Far Out </em>frames this with rigour and historical depth to make that work in the future possible and necessary.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong></strong>My own recent encounter in Pokhara offers a small but telling coda. Over dinner, I watched local artists dance to Nepali folk songs in traditional attire, the image of authentic cultural heritage that global tourism demands. Towards the end, the Germans at the next table called out a request for a song. The performers obliged. Within minutes, tourists dressed in hiking boots replaced graceful Nepali footwork, arms were flung wide, legs kicked high, and the room gave over to a German folk song. The moment was warm, spontaneous and joyful, ending with a large tip. It was also, unmistakably, the same co-production that Liechty maps: Western desire naming what it wants, Nepali citizens delivering it and something midwifing in the space between. All of the past iterations of an exotic kingdom, the hippie sanctuary, the trekker’s wilderness have given way to the smoother, more packaged fantasy, but the structure remains identical. Liechty’s great achievement in <em>Far Out</em> is to show that this dynamic is not incidental to Nepal’s tourism story. It is the story. The costumes change. The encounter continues. But whose terms does it endure on?</p>
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		<title>Guardians and Claimants </title>
		<link>https://sikkimproject.org/guardians-and-claimants/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=guardians-and-claimants</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Prava Rai]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 20 Mar 2026 04:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Book Review English]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://sikkimproject.org/?p=10838</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Guardians of Land and Water: Rituals, Vulnerability and Indigenous Belonging Among Himalayan Mútunci Róng by Jenny Bentley. Seismo Press, Zurich (2025);Rachna...]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[
<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Guardians of Land and Water: Rituals, Vulnerability and Indigenous Belonging Among Himalayan Mútunci Róng by Jenny Bentley. Seismo Press, Zurich (2025);Rachna Books and Publications, India (2025). ISBN: 978-81-89602-21-5.&nbsp;</strong><br></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Jenny Bentley’s <em>Guardians of Land and Water </em>is a deeply reflexive ethnography that plunges into the lived realities, spiritual ontologies, and political negotiations of the Mútunci Róng community, widely known by their  exonym, the Lepcha. Spanning over almost a decade of painstaking research across the Eastern  Himalayas, specifically Sikkim and West Bengal in India, and Ilam in Nepal, Bentley’s work meticulously deconstructs the colonial and postcolonial categorisation of the community as a ‘vanishing tribe’. Rejecting the simplistic view of this narrative as mere victimhood, Bentley  explores how the Mútunci Róng actively navigate a ‘damage narrative’ to assert their identity,  negotiate state recognition, and claim socio-economic rights. Through a multi-sited methodology enriched by a collaborative partnership with Indigenous scholar Kachyo Lepcha, the author  positions ‘vulnerability’ not as a paralysing condition, but as a potent driving force that compels the community to perform rituals, overcome precarity, and aggressively aspire toward a ‘good life’.  At the theoretical heart of the book lies a sharp, analytical distinction between traditional ‘ritual practice’ and modern ‘ritual programmes’. Ritual practices such as the annual <em>Sotáp Rumfát </em>and  <em>Cirim </em>in the Dzongu reserve of North Sikkim are deeply embodied, village-centric ceremonies led by initiated religious specialists known as <em>búngthíng </em>or <em>mun</em>. These practices are rooted in ‘Indigenous ontologies’ and are performed with immediate soteriological goals: to avert natural disasters like hail, prevent diseases, and ensure agricultural prosperity. The efficacy of these rituals hinges on a mythological contract of reciprocity (<em>khe tóp</em>) wherein villagers contribute material offerings such as millet beer (<em>ci</em>), rice, and animal sacrifices, which the specialist mediates to appease embedded more-than-human entities. Bentley vividly details the material culture of these practices, such as the <em>lópfyet </em>(plantain leaf altar), where eggs are meticulously placed to represent and appease specific directional deities. In this framework, ritual success is measured by non-events; the absence of catastrophe in the following year signifies that the deities have favourably received the community's spiritual tax.  </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Conversely, Bentley introduces ‘ritual programmes’ as consciously transformed, large-scale cultural festivals, perfectly exemplified by the revival of <em>Tendong Hlo Rumfát</em>. Spearheaded by urban ethnic associations like the Indigenous Lepcha Tribal Association (ILTA) and the Renjyong&nbsp; Mutanchi Rong Tarjum (RMRT), these programmes operate within ‘culturalist ontologies’. Here, fluid, ancestral oral traditions (<em>lúngten sung</em>) are entextualised, written down, and objectified into a&nbsp; packaged ‘culture’ meant for public consumption on a stage. This process makes the Mútunci Róng legible to the multicultural frameworks of the modern state, which demands a standardised cultural&nbsp; canon in exchange for Scheduled Tribe or Primitive Tribal Group (PTG) status and the accompanying welfare benefits. However, Bentley astutely observes that this top-down push for a unified, purified culture often creates intra-ethnic tension. It threatens to overwrite highly localised oral traditions and the natural ‘polysemy’ of Indigenous narratives, causing friction between traditional specialists and modern activists. The transfer of objectified rituals into traditional spaces like Dzongu is met with resistance by local <em>búngthíng</em>, who warn that divorcing rituals from their&nbsp; specific geographic and soteriological aims risks angering the more-than-human guardians and&nbsp; bringing ruin to the village.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Bentley provides a captivating cartography of the Róng cosmos, illustrating how spatial orientation&nbsp; is intrinsically tied to spiritual and physical security. The cosmos is layered along a vertical axis: the upper, northern realm is associated with snow-capped mountains and benevolent but dangerous deities like Kóngchen, the supreme mountain god. The lower, southern realm is linked to the plains,&nbsp; the underworld, and entities like the malevolent Cádúng Rázó. Importantly, Bentley argues that fertility and destruction are not static concepts bound to specific realms; rather, they are activated by movement between them. The most potent example is the descent of the ‘Kóngchen soldiers’: warrior spirits from the high mountains who bring diseases and disruptions to the human world. To protect the community from these mobile threats, the <em>búngthíng </em>employs a horizontal spatial strategy during village rituals. By verbally circumscribing the village and invoking local guardian deities (<em>Lungjí Lungnóng</em>) in an inward-spiralling sequence, the specialist effectively barricades the&nbsp; settlement, separating the safe ‘inside’ from the dangerous ‘outside’. This intricate, localised&nbsp; knowledge underscores the concept of <em>Lyángdók Úngdók, </em>the guardians of land and water, a&nbsp; polysemic identifier defining the Mútunci Róng as both the active protectors of their environment and the subjects safeguarded by its divine inhabitants.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">A major triumph of the book is its historical and political contextualisation of these ritual powers. Bentley dismantles the notion that Indigenous mountain cults were fully subjugated and ‘tamed’ by Tibetan Buddhist hegemony. Through an analysis of the discontinued royal Kóngchen ritual (<em>Pano&nbsp; Rumfát</em>) and traditional Róng administrative offices like the <em>gyápân </em>and <em>yúmí</em>, she reveals that the&nbsp; pre-Buddhist deity Kóngchen remained the ultimate, untamed owner of the Sikkimese territory. The&nbsp; Sikkimese Namgyal dynasty, despite its Buddhist foundations, depended entirely on the Róng religious specialists, specifically the Gârkumtsum clan, to appease Kóngchen and secure the kingdom's prosperity and the monarch's right to rule. This ritual interdependence functioned as an official form of taxation and enacted a profound royal indebtedness to the Indigenous subaltern,&nbsp; placing immense political agency in the hands of the traditional Róng leaders. The political efficacy of these traditional practices waned with the demise of the Sikkimese monarchy in 1975, leaving the&nbsp; Róng to navigate a new political reality.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">In contemporary times, the political utility of ritual has transitioned into the realm of modern ‘patronage democracies’. Bentley masterfully details how ethnic associations utilise ritual programmes like <em>Tendong Hlo Rumfát </em>as critical networking events where political and social capital are traded. Acting as brokers, these activists leverage the public display of their ancient heritage to secure political compliance from ruling governments, negotiating for community benefits such as educational reservations in Sikkim and the Mayel Lyang Lepcha Development Board in West Bengal. By equating the creator deity <em>Ítbú Rum </em>with a secularised ‘Mother Nature’,&nbsp; activists have even managed to bridge the gap between Christian and Buddhist Mútunci Róng,&nbsp; creating a unified political front. Yet, Bentley does not shy away from exposing the ‘dark side’ of this state patronage. She demonstrates how operating within state-sponsored frameworks forces activists into a constant performativity of marginality and need, often reinforcing structural inequalities, lacking grassroots accountability, and centralising power in the hands of an urban elite.&nbsp; The interplay of ontology, regionalism, and politics comes to a dramatic crescendo in Bentley's&nbsp; analysis of the contemporary anti-dam movement in the Dzongu reserve. Confronted by capitalist extraction and the construction of hydroelectric projects, young Róng activists rejected the state's&nbsp; narrative of economic development. Instead, they forged a powerful discourse framing Dzongu as&nbsp; the ‘holy land’ for all Mútunci Róng, symbolically repossessing their ancestral territory. This pan regional activism led to severe trans-border tensions. When Róng activists from Kalimpong attempted a religious pilgrimage to Dzongu in solidarity, they were physically blocked and evicted&nbsp; by the police and pro-dam locals, exposing deep-seated clashes over who possessed the legitimate right to claim belonging to the region. By asserting their identity as <em>Lyángdók Úngdók</em>, the protestors transformed their traditional environmental stewardship into a formidable political&nbsp; resource. This ontological resistance is deeply rooted in reality; when a devastating 6.9 magnitude earthquake struck Sikkim in 2011, heavily damaging dam sites, it was widely interpreted by locals not as a mere geological event, but as a failure of ritual efficacy; a clear sign that Kóngchen had&nbsp; withdrawn his protection and the neglected deities were exacting their wrath. This powerful local reaction proves that Róng Indigenous ontologies retain profound political and social agency in the&nbsp; modern world.&nbsp;In conclusion, Jenny Bentley’s <em>Guardians of Land and Water </em>is a thoughtful and meticulously researched contribution to ethnographic literature, Himalayan studies, and the anthropology of&nbsp; religion and politics. In many places, the book's conceptual scaffolding becomes dense,&nbsp; momentarily slowing the reader's pace. Yet the insights that emerge from it are seldom superficial,&nbsp; and the analysis remains consistently perceptive. By refusing to reduce the Mútunci Róng to static,&nbsp; colonial stereotypes of ‘pure’ nature worshippers or passive victims of modernity, Bentley presents a deeply humanised portrait of a complex, internally diverse community navigating the harsh&nbsp; realities of the ethno-contemporary world. She shows that ‘being Mútunci Róng’ involves a dynamic balancing act: performing objectified culture to navigate the bureaucratic demands of the Indian and Nepalese states, while simultaneously sustaining the profound, soteriological rituals that anchor their survival in a precarious Himalayan landscape. Rather than presenting the Mútunci Róng as relics of a disappearing past, Bentley portrays a community negotiating multiple pressures:&nbsp; environmental change, bureaucratic classification, religious pluralism, and internal diversity.&nbsp; Bentley does not resolve these tensions, nor does she attempt to present a single, unified picture of&nbsp; the community. Instead, she allows the contradictions to remain visible. The result is a study that is&nbsp; less a definitive portrait than a careful mapping of a complex terrain-one where land, ritual, and identity remain closely entwined.</p>
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		<title>Tika Bhai’s Lyricism: Songs of Self and Struggle</title>
		<link>https://sikkimproject.org/tika-bhais-lyricism-songs-of-self-and-struggle/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=tika-bhais-lyricism-songs-of-self-and-struggle</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Prava Rai]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 20 Mar 2026 04:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Book Review English]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://sikkimproject.org/?p=10891</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Kaanchko Pokhari by Tika Bhai. Upama Publications, Kalimpong, West Bengal (2024). ISBN: 9789392035906 Very tender Like a flower I had come,...]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[
<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Kaanchko Pokhari by Tika Bhai. Upama Publications, Kalimpong, West Bengal (2024). ISBN: 9789392035906</strong></p>



<div class="wp-block-group"><div class="wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained">
<div class="wp-block-group is-vertical is-content-justification-center is-layout-flex wp-container-core-group-is-layout-524f8de7 wp-block-group-is-layout-flex">
<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Very tender</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Like a flower I had come,</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Steel feet were to</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Crush this life,</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">On a diamond’s edge</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Was meant to grind this life. (7)</p>
</div>
</div></div>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">These lines introduce us to <em>Kaanchko Pokhari</em>’s lyric speaker-brooding, lament-filled, indicting the world for its harshness and, for the memorable cadence that distinguishes this collection from Tika Bhai’s previous work. Tika Bhai is a respected poet from Kalimpong, known for his Nepali verse in the tradition of political commitment. His previous collection <em>Paitalatalatira</em> (Manvi Prakashan, February, 2012) spoke for the oppressed and exploited Gorkha people. That work continues here yet with a twist. The poems suggest the poet is no longer satisfied with poetic intervention alone and that he is reaching now toward something more affective and intimate: the song.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>&nbsp;The Song’s Arrival</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Jonathan Culler’s <em>Theory of the Lyric</em> (2015) is useful here. Unlike narrative, which moves through time, or drama, which unfolds through character and conflict, lyric resists paraphrase and forward momentum, instead, it asks to be dwelt in, returned to, and heard rather than merely read. Its defining gestures-apostrophe, refrain, repetition, rhyme, direct address are not ornamental but constitutive, the means by which poems produce feeling and stay in memory. <em>Kaanchko Pokhari</em> is deeply aware of this. Memorable cadence is not incidental but consistent throughout <em>Kaanchko Pokhari</em>. Take the lines opening the second poem ‘<em>Duri</em>’ (Distance) for instance:</p>



<div class="wp-block-group is-vertical is-content-justification-center is-layout-flex wp-container-core-group-is-layout-524f8de7 wp-block-group-is-layout-flex">
<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">I am at a distance your eyes can’t reach&nbsp;</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Somewhere in the dust where your footsteps fall. (10)</p>
</div>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Though it hasn’t come across in the translation, the measured repetition of <em>timra</em>, <em>le</em>, and <em>ma</em>, produces a sonority which solicits the lyric speaker’s mysterious and hyperbolic claims. The structure of these lines also repeats near the end of the poem. The template which stays intact from the previous lines have been italicized below:&nbsp;</p>



<div class="wp-block-group is-vertical is-content-justification-center is-layout-flex wp-container-core-group-is-layout-524f8de7 wp-block-group-is-layout-flex">
<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">I am at a distance your mind can’t reach</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Somewhere in the ashes of your ego’s fire. (11)</p>
</div>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">We could say the repetition of these templates to emphasize the speaker’s central theme of distance between him and his addressee illustrates their resemblance to refrains.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Similarly, the subsequent poem <em>Parewaharu</em> (Pigeons), begins much of its stanzas with the line, ‘<em>Parewaharu Chan</em>’ (There are pigeons). The refrain is followed by curt remarks about the pigeons’ ironical existence, such that they fly but remain directionless. Or that they are waiting to be sacrificed in some ritual. Or that they become mere symbols of peace in front of all the wars. Or that they get treated like refugees in spite of their historical presence in the land. Or that they live like birds that have forgotten their wings. In short, the poem takes several jibes at the pigeons. Eight curt stanzas with three or four measured lines, render its speaker quite caustic in tone. Nevertheless, they have impressive iterations that sit well on the ears:</p>



<div class="wp-block-group is-vertical is-content-justification-center is-layout-flex wp-container-core-group-is-layout-524f8de7 wp-block-group-is-layout-flex">
<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">There are pigeons</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Yet without purpose&nbsp;</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">…Or</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">There are pigeons</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">In temples and sacred places&nbsp;</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Waiting to be sacrificed for a vow</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">… Sometimes, startled</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">They soar up, then land again</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Those pigeons. (12-13)</p>
</div>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The speaker of the next poem, <em>Chiyabot </em>(The tea bush), addresses plantation workers as one of their own, and repeatedly asks them the riddle-like question, ‘<em>Ke Cha Yo Chiyabotma?</em>’ (What’s in the tea bush?). As in the previous poem, it is structured by a refrain which anchors it to the relationship of plantation workers with the tea bushes. Many answers are suggested to the question but the lyric speaker eventually comes to assert that the workers have blood ties with the tea bushes, whose kinship is yet to be named. <em>Chiyabot</em>:</p>



<div class="wp-block-group is-vertical is-content-justification-center is-layout-flex wp-container-core-group-is-layout-524f8de7 wp-block-group-is-layout-flex">
<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">…</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">… Ruppe Daju</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">What’s in the tea bush?</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Frightens me like a ghost</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Still, I love it</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Starves me again and again</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Still, I love it</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">It is my heart, should I uproot it,</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">It is my face, should I look at it,&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">What’s in this tea bush?</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">… What bond binds me to it¸</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Baidar Kaka! (14-16)</p>
</div>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Even a relatively ‘impersonal’ poem like <em>Chiyabot</em> deftly deploys aural conventions of lyric poetry. It speaks in a colloquial first-person language with harmonies created from rhythm, rhymes and repetitions. This makes<em> Chiyabot</em>’<em>s</em> lines quite unforgettable. Whether personal or impersonal, poems of <em>Kaanchko Pokhari</em> have this musical quality which makes them more song-like than the poems from his previous collection. In <em>Paitalatalatira</em>, lyric conventions operated for other purposes-the cadence there is more declaratory, a voice addressing a gathering from a podium rather than whispering or singing to someone. Where that earlier collection speaks about lives, <em>Kaanchko Pokhari </em>speaks from within.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Within the Lyric Speaker</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The lyricist of <em>Kaanchko Pokhari </em>often gets personal. It draws on the poet’s intimate relationships and experiences, memories and feelings, for its addressees and messages. For instance, he is heard ruminating on his experience of being both a parent and a child, which remained relatively less explored in Tika Bhai’s previous collection. This inward turn palpably separates <em>Kaanchko Pokhari</em> from <em>Paitalatalatira</em>. In the earlier collection, the ‘I’ spoke for an oppressed collective- a voice of solidarity rather than interiority, voicing the experiences, dreams and outrage of the downtrodden multitude. In Kaanchko Pokhari, the ‘I’ also expresses the poet’s self, rooted in his emotional and everyday experiences. Take for instance the poem <em>Meri ‘Sanu’ Sita </em>(My Dear Sanu)<em>: </em>&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>



<div class="wp-block-group is-vertical is-content-justification-center is-layout-flex wp-container-core-group-is-layout-524f8de7 wp-block-group-is-layout-flex">
<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">My Dear,</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">I won’t give you the market’s false stories</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Instead, for you to withstand the market</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">I’ll give you the silent dignity buried in my eyes,</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">You can hold my finger</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">And look</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">With your own eyes</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">The tale of man not in pace</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">The tale of man out of tune.&nbsp;(22)</p>
</div>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Here the father addresses his daughter. It begins with the father acknowledging his repeated failure to bring her stories from the market. He then goes on to justify why he failed. He describes how the market lacks magic and concludes they also don’t have miraculous stories with happy endings. The kind of stories his daughter liked, where princes fought against and won over evil, where success, grace and happiness were possible for her and everyone else. For once, the poem sounds like a forgetful parent making excuses before his kid after not bringing her gifts.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">By the time we reach the lines quoted above, he begins rationalising why it was better not to give false stories to his daughter. Indeed, he asserts that he doesn’t wish to ever give her false hopes regarding the market’s power to change her and others’ lives for good. Instead, he dearly hopes to give her the opportunity and ability to look at the market through her own eyes. To realise of her own accord, how the market’s power was inimical to her dreams. Through this memorable poem, Tika Bhai welcomes us into his inner world of anxieties, hopes and desires.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><em>Mato Ra Papako Anuhaar</em> (The Soil and My Father’s Face) is an equally personal and moving poem. Here the lyric speaker remembers his late father every time he looks at the soil he handles, the land he treads upon or the earth he inhabits. Indeed, it’s impossible for the son to not miss his father, with whom as a grown man he finds many similarities, owing to the ubiquitous presence of soil and silence between them. In the poem, the son tenderly attends to the strengths and weaknesses of his father, relates with him for having the same qualities, especially, his failure to live up to societal expectations. It is as if the son of<em> Mato Ra Papako Anuhaar</em> wants to forgive the unsuccessful father of <em>Meri ‘Sanu’ Sita</em>. Both poems also accept with grace the difference between parents and children brought by age, time and relationships. Here are some of its significant lines:</p>



<div class="wp-block-group is-vertical is-content-justification-center is-layout-flex wp-container-core-group-is-layout-524f8de7 wp-block-group-is-layout-flex">
<div class="wp-block-group is-vertical is-content-justification-center is-layout-flex wp-container-core-group-is-layout-524f8de7 wp-block-group-is-layout-flex">
<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">I touch soil</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">And meet my father.</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">I meet the face bent over a petition.</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">It spoke without speaking</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">It talked without talking</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">That face.</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">…We had some quiet conversations&nbsp;</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">And our conversation ended in silence.&nbsp;</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">…Between us lies the border of soil</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Like a bottle-cap</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Forever closed.</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Each time I turn to the soil&nbsp;</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">I see my father’s face. (41-43)</p>
</div>
</div>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Here, music is integral to both the above poems. In fact, lyric conventions, like first person speaker, apostrophe, intimate tone, colloquial flow, rhymes, repetitions and themes of interiority are neither ornamental nor for mere sentimentality.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">For instance, the musical metaphor he deploys in<em> Mero ‘Sanu’ Sita </em>( The tale of man out of tune). The line indicates how significant music is to Tika Bhai’s poetry and human life in general. Here the tune emphasises the element of sound and the practice of listening. Afterall, both poetry and music require a sound ear to create and receive. Moreover, listening is also a fundamental experience of our being. Lyricism thus is not only a poetic mode but also the poet’s philosophy of engaging with both his private and public life. By attuning us to the many registers of the lyric speaker in <em>Kaanchko Pokhari</em>, Tika Bhai has us thinking about the language we use to express ourselves. Do they really speak only for you?</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">This inward turn does not abandon the socio-political commentary that defines Bhai’s poetry. Rather, he shifts from being the analyst of the collective to the subject of analysis-and in expressing himself, occupies both roles, turning personal experience into the lens for a continued, now more intimate, political critique. Sanu’s father resists the market’s ideological domination not by commanding or persuading his daughter, but by offering her, as a companion in struggle, the weapon of ‘dignified silence’.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>&nbsp;The Lyricist’s Wager</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The lyric speaker of <em>Kehi Bhanirakhera Jana Ayeko Chu</em> (I have come to say something before I leave) articulates Tika Bhai’s poetic ambition in <em>Kaanchko Pokhari</em>. His aim is to translate the quiet tunes of the speechless into a portrait of words. This is equally a desire to memorialise the quiet tunes. It reveals how music is salient to <em>Kaanchko Pokhari’s</em> project in more ways than one. For it is the subject (interiority), medium (speech) and form (song) of memorialisation. When Bhai speaks to roads and skies, he animates what cannot speak in order to give voice to those who no longer can. The poems wish to be remembered on the tongues of their people- to circulate orally, to stay in folk memory, the way songs outlast their singers. Consequently, the portrait is not in painting but is heard through the song. Bhai’s declaration of poetic ambition may not interest every reader but the music of his words will surely not leave them untouched. He writes:</p>



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<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Of those who left, quietly, quietly</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Of those who fell silent, quietly, quietly</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Stringing the tunes of their hearts,</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Gathering the imprints of their footsteps,</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">A portrait I shall draw and keep</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Something to the roads I shall say</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Something to the skies I shall confide.&nbsp;(80)</p>
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<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The poem <em>Badh</em> (Flood) encapsulates in action all the vows made by the poet above. Its speaker listens to the unsayable ordeals of flood victims and translates them into a poem with memorable flow and a valuable message. I shall only cite its first few lines to highlight how it obeys the maxims enlisted by the above poem:</p>



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<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Sentences crumble&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Words come apart&nbsp;</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">Letters come drowning</p>



<p class="has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph">And carry away the courtyard’s memories. (27)</p>
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<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Sentences, words and letters are at once literal casualties of the flood and figures for the disintegration of speech, language and communication among its survivors. Traumatic experience resists ordinary language- it returns not as narrative but as rupture, fragment, silence. Bhai’s flood poem enacts precisely this: language doesn’t describe the flood, it disintegrates with it. In memorialising what the flood erases, the poet participates in the survivors’ struggle to recover it.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Tika Bhai knows poetry is made more memorable through music. He wagers on the strength of music to try and inscribe in our memories the experiences of his silenced subjects. These silenced subjects range from flood victims and plantation workers to, at times, the poet himself, whose own failures, griefs and silences are equally part of <em>Kaanchko Pokhari</em>’s memorial project. By taking up room in our memories, his lyric poems desire to change our usual ways of feeling about various issues of private and public life in our region in particular and India and the world in general. Through our feelings, the poems of <em>Kaanchko Pokhari </em>work on us slowly, the way only songs can. This is the oldest wager of lyric poetry, that to move someone emotionally is to move them ethically, and that the poem which stays in memory also quietly reshapes the conscience carrying it.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>References</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Bhai, Tika. <em>Paitalatalatira</em>. 1st ed., Manvi Prakashan, 2012.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Bhai, Tika. <em>Kaanchko Pokhari</em>. 1st ed., Upama Publications, 2024.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Culler, Jonathan D. <em>Theory of the Lyric</em>. Harvard University Press, 2015.</p>
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